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COT51E
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 4:29 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Thought i would make life easier for some folk as i know how frustrating getting the door card off for the first time.

firstly un-do the visable fasteners next to the door lock. 3mm hex key and philips screwdriver.



then focus on the allen key bolts hidden in the door handle, top and bottom. the one next to the pull handle itself is a philips, is on mine anyway. shine a torch up there to see the angle of the heads.

TOP HOLE


when you remove the handle away from the door, un clip the plugs for the window switches and then unscrew the brackets that the handle was attached to.

BOTTOM HOLES.


Next pull open the door lever to reveal a philips screw. take care when you come to remove the door card as the cable is attached by a hook to the rear side. take note of the slot it sits in when replacing.


when removing the card hold it at the top and pull upward so you clear the lock pin and then away from the door. push the window connectors through the holes and undo the pull cable from behind the door lever.

if still attached check around the door edge bottom and sides as some of the plastic fastening hooks snap off and may have additional screws to fasten the door card on. i know mine has!


good look but remember the slot where the cable behind the lever goes as you will put it all back together and find you can't open the door, i know from experience Evil or Very Mad

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COT51E
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 9:26 am Reply with quote Back to top

appologise if i have the allen key sizes wrong, they might actually be 4mm and 5mm not 3 & 4.

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richymotor
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:01 am Reply with quote Back to top

an absolute star .... i looked at those holes but thought "nah they can't have screws up to, they're too small" but hex bolts are another story

cheers buddy
yey i can fix my lock now Smile

i think this should be a sticky

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richiegold
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 4:56 pm Reply with quote Back to top

cot51e wrote:
when removing the card hold it at the top and pull upward so you clear the lock pin


thats the important bit btw, when my lock jammed open and i had to remove my door card i didnt lift the panel up and ended up snapping off some of the plastic "hangers" from the back of the door car itself.

its a very fiddly job the first time you do it.

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McDan
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:12 am Reply with quote Back to top

Anybody got/or fancy doing a guide like this for the rear panels? I can hope.... Wink
 
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cactusgreen
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:46 am Reply with quote Back to top

McDan wrote:
Anybody got/or fancy doing a guide like this for the rear panels? I can hope.... Wink


Me too Smile Wanted to add remote locking kit but getting to the pump.... Shock

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COT51E
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 10:50 am Reply with quote Back to top

which rear panels, boot or speaker panels in the rear.

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cactusgreen
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:10 am Reply with quote Back to top

...whatever I need to get to the CL pump to plug in the votex kit....

Most dissapointed.....got the rear seat out of an 11 year old car....and not even a penny to be found Sad Not even a sweet wrapper...so guess I'm not the first there....

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COT51E
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:41 am Reply with quote Back to top

i'm sure the pump is located under the right hand corner of the boot. (drivers side) i somtimes hear a churning sound coming from that area after starting the car, this is the pump charging the air lines up to pressure. i know there's a large lump of cast iron on damper rubbers down there, this apparently is to reduce scuttle shake. there's a smaller one on the pass side.

to get at ,remove plugs holding the plastic trim that covers the lock near bumper. then pull away rubber boot seal half way round then undo any other clips. its quite ridged stuff but it will fold down to reveal the area below the fuel filler.

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McDan
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 12:31 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Had the boot all stripped out when doing the looms. doesn't appear to be any access to the central locking pump from there. I can see the hoses, but they vanish off under the fuel tank so I guess it's behind the speaker panels in the back, drivers side.

Yeah, fitting the remote central locking kit is what I'm after too. I know the boot pretty well now after that loom job so I'm pretty sure the pump aint there, although that is where the parts diagram I got from vagparts shows it to be. Confusing eh? lol.

Can't be that hard to remove the speaker panels etc in the back. Suppose the seats will have to go to though.
 
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cactusgreen
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 1:27 pm Reply with quote Back to top

In mine, the area that usually has the pump on the saloon is full of roof hydraulics....As McDan says, it not in that area....Just looking at a copy of the elaswin software....boy it's about a gazillion bolts, screws, poppers and other bits to get to the pump....which should be behind that rear panel. Going to need some better weather to work on this one Rolling Eyes

I've fitted one of these Votex kits to an 80TDi and it just plugged right in....never found the right wires for the indicators to flash...but mine don't do that in any case....

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Michael-Kraut
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 1:48 pm Reply with quote Back to top

cactusgreen wrote:
...whatever I need to get to the CL pump to plug in the votex kit....

Most dissapointed.....got the rear seat out of an 11 year old car....and not even a penny to be found Sad Not even a sweet wrapper...so guess I'm not the first there....


The CL pump is behind the back of the rear seat on the right hand site.
It is called Bi- pressure pump and contains the controls for the CL, as well.

Partnumbers
4A0 862 257 J for a CL with Alarm
4A0 862 257 J for CL with infra red remote
8L0 862 257 G for CL with radio remote
8L0 862 257 M for CL with radio remote and with alarm

Cheers

Michael

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audioc
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 3:24 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Cheers Pete- I've made it into a sticky, as requested....

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bigchewie
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 3:14 pm Reply with quote Back to top

On my 95 coupe the allen key sizes for removing the handle are 4mm

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gtbugboy
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 1:23 pm Reply with quote Back to top

thank you sooo much for doing this thread. just took my drivers door card off today to find out why i cant lock the door off the key. was hoping one of the rods had just come off its mechanism. sods law though as there was actually a piece broken at the very top of the rod that joins on the back of the lock. does anybody have an audi print out of the parts breakdown for this area?? gonna have to take the window out as well i think as its a bit fiddly.
buts its all gonna have to wait a couple of weeks anyway i think cos i'm cruising it down to the south of france first thing next week.
bring on the real sunshine!!

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jas11n
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 3:58 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Pick a number, post it and I'll give you it's part number with a rough estimate of price.
You can click on the pic for a bigger image.



Jase..

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gtbugboy
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 6:19 pm Reply with quote Back to top

hmmn, having already put the door card back on, i cant say that it looks like any of those pieces. would you have the breakdown sheet for the rods that go down from the lock. the rod to the door pin is fine as when i push that down, it locks. it definitely the one that goes to the back of the lock. thanks for your help so far....

rich.

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paradox2012
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:52 am Reply with quote Back to top

im still stuck as my door lock has failed and the door is shut. the back has broke off the lock ive pulled the door pin out, rod n all! looks like i will have to cut the card off.
 
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smokie
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:34 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Thanks for the info for taking off door cards, had them off in 5 mins following your guide, made my day so much easier Wink
 
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