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Fast28
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Joined: Feb 05, 2003
Posts: 1147
Location: Gloucestershire UK

PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 12:21 am Reply with quote Back to top

When I bought my '98 cabriolet with hydraulic roof it initially didn't look good with the hydraulic roof refusing to fold away. The seller and myself folded the roof away manually and placed the hardtop over the car. Feeling fairly confident that the 'ol boot looms were the usual culprit I didn't think much of it.
Fast forward several months and it's time to look at the roof problem. The seller had included an Audi parts box with a boot lock motor but I gathered had not fitted it yet. Now with the hardtop off and hydraulic roof up I twisted the handle but the roof refused to unlock from the windscreen frame; handbrake was on and ignition was on so a quick look at the boot and a twist of the lock barrel resulted in the front solenoid releasing the roof. There was no power in the hydraulic system so once again I was fairly confident the right-hand side wiring loom running up the boot hinge was to blame. Removing all the carpeting inside the boot revealed the loom connections, I also needed to gain access to the electric aerial that was also faulty - another story coming up there! Rolling Eyes

Tracing the loom through the rubber grommet on the body I disconnected the two plugs, one green 5-way and a white single-way connector. The plugs inside the boot lid I only disconnected the boot lock barrel motor plugs, one green 3-way and a beige 3-way. There are other plugs that this loom goes to so I ended up cutting the loom rather than finding all the other plugs, I ensured there was enough length to solder a new section to. I took a few photos of the work.

On removing the old loom section I was intrigued to see if any of the wires were damaged in the folding section that lays over the hinge...



Quite bad in fact! Crying or Very sad Nearly all the wires were broken. At least I knew I was on the right track. 6 of these 7 wires go to the lock barrel motor that turn the lock closed when the roof is in operation, the other wire I believe goes to the microswitch on the lock mechanism.

I bought some 7-wire trailer loom for the repair, it's slightly larger and a bit more robust than the Audi loom and you can't use the neat plastic locking trims to hold it down due to it's bulkier size. About a 4-foot section was removed from the faulty loom and the ends of each loom were stripped ready to be soldered. It's a good idea to remove the old rubber grommets and slide them over the new loom section. I had to drill larger holes in them to accept the larger diameter cable.



Suitable colours were matched to the originals, soldered and covered with heatshrink insulation..



The loom was fed into the boot connected to the connectors, rubber grommet installed and then fed up into the boot lid where the other end of the loom is soldered and insulated..




Having the spare boot lock motor I took the opportunity to install it, just 2 screws holding it in position with an easy press fit connection to the lock barrel...




Now with all that installed I was feeling confident I was going to have a working roof. I closed the boot and went to the turn the roof opening handle - handbrake on, ignition on and ....nothing couldn't turn the handle the front lock solenoid was not letting go Confused . Went to the boot to turn the key to the horizontal lock position but to my horror the boot was locked shut and wouldn't open, pah! I noticed that because the hydaulic system was turning on the decklid was not being locked so perhaps that was the problem of why the boot was locked. I first had to get the front lock solenoid to electrically release. I knew that it relied on having 1. ignition power, 2. handbrake switch illuminated and 3. boot closed/locked. It was at this time I called in the reinforcements in the form of VAGCOM and the electric version of the factory manual. The manual gives a guide on how to read the fault codes and interpret the measuring blocks.

Address 26 in VAGCOM is for the roof operation. Reading the fault codes I had 3 stored codes...

01099 Switch for boot:lock...implausible signal.

01107 Warning dash light - open circuit.

00271 See repair group 01...intermittent.

Not telling me much in the way of what was specifically wrong I took a look at the measuring blocks in relation to what I was supposed to see according to the factory manual.
There are 2 measuring blocks, each has 4 "zones" which look like 4 blocks of horizontally placed readings in VAGCOM. Block 1 reads the inputs from the switches while block 2 reads the outputs from the roof ECU. Each zone reading consists of up to eight "1"s or "0"s, 1= switch closed, 0 = switch open.
The manual takes each step of the roof operation and states what necessary switches each zone of both measuring blocks should read.

With ignition on, boot closed and handbrake and the roof in the closed position I took the following readings...



Looking at "Group" 1, in the first zone I should have the 4th and 8th switch reading in the closed "1" position, which I do; OK.

These switches relate to Convertible top released switch -F205 closed (convertible top locked) & Convertible top front latch switch -F172 closed (convertible top resting on roof frame).

Zone 2 inputs are ignored. Zone 3 inputs should only consist of a "1" in the 6th position; I don't have this!! which should be - Handbrake warning switch -F9 closed (handbrake applied).

Zone 4 inputs should consist of a "1" in the 2nd position - Vehicle speed less than 5 km/h.


Looking at "Group" 2 outputs, in the first zone I should have a "0" in the 1st position indicating - Convertible top release lock solenoid -N187 not energised.

Zone 2 is ignored and zones 3 & 4 are not used.

I had a useful starting point indicating to a faulty handbrake switch. Checking the instruments in the dash I could see that it was not illuminated so I removed the centre console and handbrake surround and moved the connection to the switch under the handbrake and sure enough the warning lamp illuminated, job done I thought! Very Happy . Twisted the roof handle once more and...still locked Surprised . I took another look at the group 1 zone 3 to see if the handbrake was registering, it wasn't!!. Putting 2 & 2 together - open circuit in the handbrake switch signal to the roof ECU. Finding the break in the existing loom was going to be very labour intesive taking trim and looms apart tracing the cable so rewire a link from the switch to the roof ECU. Reading the schematics the handbrake signal went to pin B5 (brown/white wire) on the red connector. The rear bench and back cushion was removed to access the ECU. Checking the continuity between the switch and this pin backed up the VAGCOM reading with an open-circuit showing. Running a wire from the switch and soldering it to the existing wire at the ECU...



Fitting the ECU back together and plugging everything back in I tried the roof handle again - success!! Very Happy The roof detached on turning the handle. Without VAGCOM I think this fault would of been undetectable especially as the handbrake light was illuminated on the dash.
On turning the handle and releasing the roof the windows went down a few inches as they should and the hydraulic pump kicked into life slowly folding the roof back. Next the decklid catches released and the lid tried to lift but the hydraulics seemed not to have the lifting ability to overcome the weight. Finishing the roof opening cycle manually and closing it manually I tried the boot once more hoping it would now open - nope! Evil or Very Mad it was stubbornly locked still. There was no other way to open the lid, all options had been exhausted I would have to try and operate the lock inside the boot. With the seat already removed I remembered the subwoofer/ski bag gave access through the centre of the fuel tank. Removing the 4 screws holding the ski bag gave quite a generous open area to see into the boot and operate tools...



I was lucky in the fact that I had removed the carpet and trim from the boot and the lock barrel was exposed but also the two nuts were visible that held the lock mechanism to the inside of the boot lid. I went for the 2 nuts holding the lock to the lid. I would need a long extension with a 10mm socket....


Razz

Removing the 2 nuts with my multiple extension wonder tool I went to the rear of the car pulled up on the boot and the lock fell off and hey presto the boot was open! Cool
Looking at the boot lock motor I had earlier installed it was locked solid! there was no movement in the rack and pinion drive like on the one I removed Confused It then occured to me that I must of installed the old broken motor in place of the new one that was in fact already installed!! Rolling Eyes for some reason the old one was not thrown away but kept in the new one's packaging and left in the boot, it still had the dealership bill receipt with it! On fitting the new motor I could see the lock barrel could now rotate freely with the key inserted and twisted to the left. Shutting the boot once more and pressing the lock resulted in a big"YES"! punch the air moments! Laughing 2 down 1 to go! With the decklid to sort out I had a hunch the hydraulic fluid could be low so now wit the boot open I could check the reservoir...



Yep, the level was just below the minimum, after 11 years use the fluid required a much needed top-up! The filler plug is on top of the pump under the cover which is bolted over the valves, a 13mm socket is required to remove the filler plug...



The best way to fill the reservoir I found was to use a syringe, the one I used is for using epoxy glue..



After filling the reservoir to just under the MAX mark I refitted the pump filler plug and cover and operated the roof from the closed position, the hydraulics whirred into life and thankfully the decklid opened as it should stowing the roof and locking down the decklid and raising the electric windows.

Job done! Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Admin - possible sticky?

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beaverburger
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:25 am Reply with quote Back to top

Well done. Great description of a tricky job. Gets my vote for a sticky.

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jonnybrad2001
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:44 am Reply with quote Back to top

Excellent post, any chance of two pics whilst it is in bits?

One of the boot lid with the new fatter wiring in place, just to see how it looks now as rewiring my boot loom is on my list of 'to do' jobs.

Second, if you've still got the rear interior trim out could you send one of the area around the seat belt tensioner, I've got an Airbag light on which is a dodgy connection around there (cheers BladeRunner for the diagnostic) be nice to be able to see what I've got to tackle.

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jas11n
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:47 am Reply with quote Back to top

Fast28 wrote:


Admin - possible sticky?


I think that more than qualifies Wink

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S2X2
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 10:18 am Reply with quote Back to top

Fast 28, well done on fixing it and post such an informative "How To". Definitely more than qualifies for stickydom.

My car has similar problems. Hopefully without the faulty hand-brake and low hydraulic fluid though. I like the idea of the trailer electrical cable.

Any update on the rear wing electric aerial as I took mine apart and it seemed to be non working due to a rusty spring on a relay contact in the printed circuit area. I gave up easily, as I tried a Beru black masted aerial which fits and works perfertly. Only down side is that it is a bit tall when it is fully extended.

Anyway thank you very much again for your roof repair post.

Should be mandatory reading for all B4 Cabriolet owners, as they may not have the problem now, but one day.

scratch Brick wall
 
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Fast28
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 5:57 pm Reply with quote Back to top

S2X2 thanks for the kind comments Smile

The aerial looks as though it's beyond repair unfortunately as the plastic gear cog that is run from the motor pinion gear is badly worn and there seems to be no supplier for spares. These aerials are a very old design dating back to the Ur-quattros that also had them. I've since replaced it with a generic 99cm electric one.

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jonnybrad2001
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 1:27 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Finally walked up to the local camping supplies the other weekend, as I've got locking & fog light issues, and got 2m of trailer wire. £2.50, lovely.

Reloomed the right hand side, that all works now, then found out the left side does the fog lights, reverse lights, and number plate lights, so another weekend I'll be rewiring those...

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DeeMart
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 2:06 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I've had very similar problems, had to rewire boot looms and put new hood fluid reservoir on and now pump and everything seems to work but the hood is still reluctant to operate properly, I suspect air in the system, is there a bleed screw anywhere as I'm sure I can hear air
 
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Fast28
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 7:31 pm Reply with quote Back to top

The hydraulic system is self bleeding much like the power steering system.

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gunman
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PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 7:10 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Can I ask a possible stupid question? (and no, that one's not it Laughing ) What type of fluid do you put in these things? I'm having difficulty once I had the wife's cabby put back together today, the bootlid is replaced and I can open the roof catch and the roof will go back, the lid opens for the roof to go in, but once it pops open it won't lift. I've just checked the fluid level and it too is just below min so I'm hoping this is the problem with mine too.

My wife is a community nurse so a syringe shouldnt be a problem Laughing .

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DeeMart
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PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 7:19 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Audi told me it was the same as power steering fluid so I got theirs just to be sure
 
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Sean_O
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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 9:35 am Reply with quote Back to top

Fast28 Great job!
Never trust a spare part left over in a car by a professional seller, especially if it looks new .... Wink
A question : my hydraulic roof has a problem - though probably not as bad as yours - : the roof goes OK or half his way (depending on how in a hurry you are, of course). On bad days, I finish the job manually. But from then (and for the next days) the roof control red light flashes while driving. I plan to fill up the pump reservoir - as soon as the weather improves- but am quite suprised that the system is able to detect a low fluid level ... (?) Or is it simply because the malfunction is recorded and displayed ? But then it would disappear after ignition is turned off and on again, which is not the case. Any idea ? Thanks !

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shortie
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 7:53 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Hi fast look likes i got the same codes as you apart from the boot one will try this tmrw as i ship out again tmrw night. Very informativ reading.
kev
 
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shortie
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:05 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Hi Dont know if you can help but my readings are as follows
Roof locked 0111011 10101101 00000100

Roof unlocked 00101010 10101101 00000100
These are both group 1
group 2
Roof locked 00000 00000000
Roof unlocked 00000 00000000
The 4th 0 in group 2 zone 1 flicks between 0 and 1
Cant wait to get the manual will have to be next week as off away until then although any help would be great as im mobile internet..
Cheers
Kev
 
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audini
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 10:26 pm Reply with quote Back to top

hi Very Happy ,that has to be the easiest guide to fault finding and repair i have seen, Surprised very thorough ,helpful ,step by step guide(with reasons for why we do something)
i do have a good electrical knowledge,not worried about trying a new angle,or opinion on how to do something,and read your article with great enthusiasm,i thought ,at last , an article with thought for others , rather than trying to "big up themselves" Rolling Eyes
a couple of pointers in the right direction on my cab problem,electrically i had some idea of where , and what to look for,but got stuck as to why the boot locked up and wouldn't release even when every latch was located Embarassed
i had to open the petrol cap because i remembered the block connectors location,pull out the rubber boot,and probe the solenoid to release the lock mechanism,happy days Laughing but i will not open as it should.
i still do not know why?possible faulty actuator,it keeps locking the boot , Sad so i have disconnected it temporary measure, Confused possible wiring ground short,but then why does it work when probed? Evil or Very Mad

still must keep plodding on with it eh?
 
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audioc
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 7:43 am Reply with quote Back to top

check the other "sticky" at the top of the forum- mentions roof codes in the title- that may also assist....
 
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Fast28
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 10:44 pm Reply with quote Back to top

shortie wrote:
Hi Dont know if you can help but my readings are as follows
Roof locked 0111011 10101101 00000100

Roof unlocked 00101010 10101101 00000100
These are both group 1
group 2
Roof locked 00000 00000000
Roof unlocked 00000 00000000
The 4th 0 in group 2 zone 1 flicks between 0 and 1
Cant wait to get the manual will have to be next week as off away until then although any help would be great as im mobile internet..
Cheers
Kev


Everything looks okay when fully closed. Do the windows lower when in the unlocked position?

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shortie
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 11:55 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Hi yes when i realease the front roof catch all 4 windows drop 6 inches then nothing but the boot doesnt lock.when i release the 2 catches on the rear deck the boot locks but pump still doesnt cut in.Am gonna check the micro switch wiring 2 day. Will let you know how it goes.
kev
 
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Fast28
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 11:53 am Reply with quote Back to top

I did have a read of the manual last night and compared your results with what they should be when the windows drop, it did look as though 2 of your results were not what they should be, I think one result showed that you were getting a decklid open signal instead of a closed signal so maybe the switch wire in the loom wherever that maybe could be damaged?

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shortie
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 1:41 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Funny you should say that if i operate the deck lid locks manually the passenger side activates the boot lock and the drivers side does nothing. i have a few days on my hands at the mo so will try and get my head round all the 0 1 and crosses in the manual. cheers for the help so far.
 
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 3:20 pm Reply with quote Back to top

hi, not sure if i want to tackle all that !! is there possibly one solution to the roof warning light flashing every so often whilst driving ?? and also an easy solution to the engine running like a pig !! have had it looked at a few times but no real cure i.e. air flow meter adjusted, timing checked, plugs etc but still no real joy ! hope you can help9newbie 1995 cab just had body kit fitted !!
 
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 2:46 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Could the Op or anyone else help please. My brother has just bought an audi cabriolet with a similar problem, the boot will not open. It is a manual roof but again something is telling the loom that the roof trunk lid is open, when you shut it down it doesnt lock in place at all and therefore you get the flashing red light on the dash. My initial query is.... we went into the boot through the rear seat and with a wondertool undid the 2 nuts on studs that are shown in the centre of the picture above ( the silver colour ones ) ,i assume the copper coloured ones just hold the lock motor in place. After removing these I expected the boot to pop open, it didnt..,could it be that it just needs a little gentle persuasion ( i.e pulling about a little ) as the studs that the nuts came off of still seem to be impeding its progress upwards. Do i have to pull the black upper bracket away from the inside of the boot a little so that its off the studs before it will release. cheers for any advice.
 
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Fast28
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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 6:55 pm Reply with quote Back to top

You need to knock off the black lock, with the nuts off, lever or knock the lock bracket away, it will fall off and you should be able to lift the boot open. Smile

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audii
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 1:26 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Hi Fast28 / all,

Thanks so much for all the amazing information on this page.
Ive been fiddling with a not working top on my '94 audi cab as well. It's the same issue as described often; all going well until the lid for the roof cover box goes up for a few inches, then stalls. So far I have been opening the roof manually, but you know, nice when things could work.. And it's very annoying that the boot sometimes doesn't open after manually pulling the roof down and back up again.

I've redone the boot loom wiring and made sure all connections are ok.
I've checked Fluid levels which are at Max.
I've ran VCDS lite which gives me:


VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0

Code:

Component and/or Version: automVerdeck
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
5 Faults Found:
01089 - Switch for Tensioning Strut Stowed (F204)
25-00 - Unknown Switch Condition

01100 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
27-00 - Please Register/Activate
--> (is this: Luggage Compartment Switch (Unlked)?)

01111 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
28-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
--> (is this: Luggage Compartment Lock Actuator Motor 1 ?)

00258 - Solenoid Valve 1 (N88)
36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

00271 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
--> (is this: See Repair Group 1 ?)



I have to admit I'm rather puzzled, but reading through this and other forums I get a sense the boot lock motor could be the cause. Also because I have issues with the boot is sometimes not opening when having opened the roof manually.

While looking at the lock, one thing I don't understand is the arm that connects the boot lock (where the key goes in) to the microswitch at the actual boot lock which I suppose double checks if the boot is actually shut and locked.
Here an image to explain this:



When I turn key with the boot open, I can see and hear the boot locking, but the second arm (2) doesn't move at all, and doesn't seem connected to this movement -

My question is, should it be, and is that the core of the problem?
Or is there anything else you think is causing the problem from reading the above fault codes?

It seems to me that someone could have possibly worked on the lock, and didn't put it back properly. Or, I might have overloaded the boot, and somehow disturbed the mechanism, as I think the back plastic cover which covers the boot lock (where the keys go in) hasn't been on.
I read http://forums.audiworld.com/showpost.php?p=24130237&postcount=19 where Loudgoldwing (great contributions!) describes "little 1/2" black shiny circle-shaped sensors located on and around the frame of the top, as well as the inside of the carpeted "bucket" where the top is stored." and dirt on these to cause the issue. The problem described is exactly the same, and the cause very plausible, but I cannot find any 1/2" black shiny circle-shaped sensors anywhere, and am wondering if this regards a later model? (mine's a '94, his a '98. ) are there any optical sensors in the frame and roof compartment of a '94 cab?

Many, many thanks for your thoughts - I've been on this for a while now and very much like to solve it. Apologies for a rather long post, just thought to try and give a complete description. Cheers!


Also one other question, I bumped into this loose yellow plug in the boot lid, and wondered what it is and if it's a clue to my problem? I've measured it with a multimeter, which shows the two lines are connected to eachother. I can't find an open connected that it could possibly connect to.
[/img]
 
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Fast28
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 9:04 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Hi,

Looks very much like a faulty luggage compartment lock (V53), it has two motors, one locks the boot, the other isolates the lock from operation. Seems as though one is not working, fault codes seem to back this up...

Fault code deciphering...

01100
(Luggage compartment released switch 1)

Possible Cause:

Undefined switch status
- Switching of switch at incorrect time
- Short to earth in signal wire or switch

Possible effects:

▪ Convertible top compartment lid is released but not raised
- Check switch function

Fault Remedy:

Use current flow diagram to perform fault-finding between -J256 (ECU) and -V53 (luggage compartment lock is locked by positioning motor 1 and the lock isolated by positioning motor 2 (components integrated into central locking motor in the tailgate/boot lid) (contact 1 and contact 6) and earth.


01111
(Luggage compartment lock posit. motor 1 1)

Possible Causes:

Open circuit...
- Contact corrosion in connector
- Open circuit in wiring

Short to positive...
- Central locking motor, tailgate/boot lid -V53 in luggage compartment lid defective

Possible Effects:

Open circuit...
▪ Luggage compartment lid is neither released nor locked via central locking system

Short to positive...
▪ Convertible top compartment lid is released automatically but not raised

Fault Remedy:

Open circuit...
- Use current flow diagram to perform fault-finding between -J256 and -V53, contact 5

Short to positive...
- Check central locking motor, tailgate/boot lid V53
- Convertible top operation control unit -J256 defective
- Check output signal


00258
(Solenoid 1 -N88)

Possible Cause:

Short to positive...
- Short to positive
- Solenoid valve 1 -N88 outside tolerance
- Convertible top operation control unit -J256 defective

Open circuit...
- Contact corrosion in connector
- Open circuit in wiring
- Solenoid valve 1 -N88 defective

Possible Effects:

▪ 8-valve pump: No automatic opening of convertible top compartment lid
▪ 6-valve pump: Problem with movement sequence

Fault Remedy:

Use current flow diagram to perform fault-finding



00271
(Refer to Repair Group 01)

Possible Cause:

Incorrect operation
- Impermissible switch position on pressing convertible top actuator button

Possible Effects:

▪ No movement of convertible top

Fault Remedy:

Interrogate fault memory
Move convertible top to end position by hand
Erase fault memory
Switch ignition off and on again, press convertible top actuator button
If possible, fully open and close convertible top
Interrogate fault memory again


HTH
Smile

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audii
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Joined: Jul 01, 2011
Posts: 49

PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 10:22 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Thanks for your Fast28 reply!

Do you mean there are two motors inside what you have pictured below as "spare boot lock motor", or the part where the keys go in?
Or do you mean it's might be necessary to replace the barrel as well?

I'm still very suspicious of the boot lock arm that should close the boot lock microswitch (that I pictured in my previous post). It just isn't connected to the key mechanism, or any mechanism at all, but I'm sure it wouldn't just be there for pete's sake. As I understand Herr Audi's high priority was to make sure the boot is locked, it looks like a possible cause.


I just did the VAG COM Block measurings, which gives me this

1. roof closed, handbrake on, all set..
10111111 10100101 00000100 11 00
00000 00000000 n/a n/a


2. roof handle turned halfway
10101111 10100101 00000100 11 00
10010 00000000 n/a n/a


3. handle turned back, roof lying on window edge
10101110 10100101 00000100 11 00
00010 00000000 n/a n/a

3b roof pushed open by hand
10101110 10100100 00000100 11 00
00010 00000000 n/a n/a

4. pull roof open button, roof is rising up..
10101110 10100100 00000100 11 00
01010 00111111 n/a n/a


Which shows that the first group at start is 10111111, which in your VAG-COM screengrab is 00110011, so that is different from yours at 3 switches Sad But I haven't a clue which switch they mean.

Many thanks again!
 
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Fast28
Got Nothing Better To Do



Joined: Feb 05, 2003
Posts: 1147
Location: Gloucestershire UK

PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 6:28 pm Reply with quote Back to top

All look correct except for the op.4 where you should have a "1" in the seventh digit of the third measuring block.

This "1" means the "Open" switch in convertible top switch -E137 is closed (actuated), You probably have a 0 here as you would of released the switch; so all in all everything looks okay up to this point.

When the decklid opens is where I would expect to see some errors.

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CCV6
Bandwidth Buster



Joined: Feb 22, 2010
Posts: 668
Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 6:34 am Reply with quote Back to top

Fast28 wrote:

00271
(Refer to Repair Group 01)

Possible Cause:

Incorrect operation
- Impermissible switch position on pressing convertible top actuator button

Possible Effects:

▪ No movement of convertible top

Fault Remedy:

Interrogate fault memory
Move convertible top to end position by hand
Erase fault memory
Switch ignition off and on again, press convertible top actuator button
If possible, fully open and close convertible top
Interrogate fault memory again


Fast does Fault 00271 have any other description for the effect "No movement of convertible top" i.e is that the storage cover top or the actual top e.g the bow at the back or the main roof section? (its a number thats missing from my list.

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audii
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Joined: Jul 01, 2011
Posts: 49

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 9:50 am Reply with quote Back to top

Hi fast28, thanks, but as CCV6 pointed, dont you think my first group is wrong - at startup I have 10111111, which should be 10111011, meaning that in my case I have on position 5 and 6 both a 1, which would mean pos.5: V53 verriegelt, and pos.6 V53 entriegelt - the same V53 both locked and unlocked.

I didnt get any more readings than I posted, I mean the roof stalls there and doesn't go any further. So there are no readings after that. Does that shrink the chance of a solution?

But I will run the check again when back at the car tonight or tomorrow.


Last edited by audii on Tue Jul 05, 2011 11:08 am; edited 1 time in total 
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audii
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Joined: Jul 01, 2011
Posts: 49

PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 1:58 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Hi,

I took the boot motor V53 apart (not easy..) and saw that it doesn't have the broken trace on the PCB problem mentioned on audicabrio.info, and the images posted.

Then reinstalled V53, and made some measurements again.

I realise now, that what I thought was odd earlier (position 5 and 6 of first block being 1) is normal - my boot was actually locked. After unlocking it, they show as it should - position 5 = 1, position 6 = 0. - edit - actually after reading http://www.audicabrio.info/co/showthread.php?tid=18508 where it says
Quote:
Die Bits die die Werte für "Verriegelung offen / Verriegelung geschlossen darstellen (Gruppe1 / Block 1 / Ziffer 5 +6) sollten entweder xxxx10xx oder xxxx01xx sein.
and going through the audi "as should be" code outputs - I realise it is wrong for them to both be 1.

Here the measurements, I took them from the Log function, it's quite hard to know when each Stage exactly starts as the log keeps measuring every second or so, even if nothing has changed yet, but when adding a line the shows how the figures SHOULD be, I think this is what I'm getting:


Code:
Group A:      '001                                                Group B:      '002      
                     Bin. Bits      Bin. Bits      Bin. Bits      Bin. Bits         Bin. Bits   Bin. Bits
           TIME                                                                 TIME
Marker     STAMP                                                                STAMP      
1, is      1.42      0011 0011      1010 0101      0000 0100        11  00      0.75      00000      0000 0000
1, should be         1011 1011      1010 0101      0000 0100        11  00                00000      0000 0000
                                                
2, is      7.15      0010 0011      1010 0101      0000 0100        11  00      6.48      10010      0000 0000
2, should be         1010 1011      1010 0101      0000 0100        11  00                10010      0000 0000
                                                
3, is      10.62     0010 0010      1010 0101      0000 0100        11  00      9.98      00011      0000 0000
3, should be         1010 1010      1010 0100      0000 0100        11  00                00011      0000 0000
                                                
4, is      27.69     0010 0010      1010 0100      0000 0110        11  00      27.07     01010      0001 1000
4, should be         1010 1010      1010 0100      0000 0110        11  00                01010      0011 1111
                                                
5, is      36.84     0010 0010      0010 0110      0000 0110        11  00      36.17     01010      0001 1000
5, should be         1010 1010      1010 0110      0000 0110        11  00                01010      0011 1111
                                                
6, is      42.5      0010 1110      1010 0101      0000 0100        11  00      41.85     00000      0000 0000
6, should be         0110 0110      0110 0110      0000 0110        11  00                00010      0011 1111



Does this give you anymore ideas?

The problems I see are
- in most of the stages stages, the 1st and 5th position of the first block are wrong. - edit - but I see in the image of your initial post, that you have the same? - edit2: two post ahead I see the issue for this.
- in stage 4, last block of group B should become mostly 1's

As you mentioned
Quote:
All look correct except for the op.4 where you should have a "1" in the seventh digit of the third measuring block.
- this is now indeed the case.

Note that the boot doesn't unlock after this failed attempt to open the roof, which shows in the first block 5th position

Btw, for the first time since a few months, the lid of the roof compartment actually didn't lift - the roof opens up to where it points straight to the sky, then stalls, and roof folds back as if it deflates.


Many thanks!

Ps. I'm still posting this in two threads - if it's preferred I should join them somehow, please let me know - not sure what's etiquette.


Last edited by audii on Tue Jul 05, 2011 11:36 am; edited 2 times in total 
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