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ekspat
Needs to get out more



Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 7:23 am Reply with quote Back to top

Turned the key, nothing. Fine yesterday but today not a twitch. I have the ignition lock down as a possible culprit as when I bought the car (2009) it had just had a new one fitted. Has anyone else had a similar problem with the ignition? Question
 
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marsh_1st
Audi Nut



Joined: Feb 25, 2010
Posts: 94

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 9:45 am Reply with quote Back to top

Hi, I had a very similar problem which was the switch on the back of the ignition barrel. I had to hot wire the car for a few weeks! I seem to remember buying it from EuroCarParts or something like that so should be still available.
 
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marsh_1st
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Joined: Feb 25, 2010
Posts: 94

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 9:49 am Reply with quote Back to top

Mine also used to suffer with the same sort of thing if I had been through a puddle the day before - presumed it got something wet and then didnt want to crank - obviously this would probably need the starter looking at.

I have sent my starter to a local auto electricians and its the first time he has ever told me a starter was scrap and un-repairable!
 
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hoolio
Got Nothing Better To Do



Joined: Sep 22, 2006
Posts: 1034
Location: surrey

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 11:02 am Reply with quote Back to top

I had my ignition go some years back but it didn't just not work at first it took several wiggles and turns before it would catch but I always got ignition lights until eventually even they didn't come on,I had an old morriss 1100 in the drive and ended up fitting the ignition from that under the dash and x years later it's still doing the job Smile

edit; you could take the back off and clean the contacts this should breathe a small amount of life into a dying unit but not for long.

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91 16v quattro,modded airbox k&n ,CAC zorst, spax vsx suspension, tubular manifold, de-cat, p&p head, KR cams a bit of this an that  
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ekspat
Needs to get out more



Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 6:26 pm Reply with quote Back to top

After a bit of fiddling I ended up with lights everywhere! Anyway I realized that it had to be the switch and have now managed to get hold of one. My problem now is how to separate the switch attached to the key part? Is it a push fit? There`s very little room to move about and its very dark in there.
Thanks.
 
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retrosonic
Inexperienced



Joined: Jan 20, 2012
Posts: 42

PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 6:30 am Reply with quote Back to top

replaced my ignition switch two years ago if i remember correctly its secured by 2x small grub screws to the lock housing, i removed steering wheel and instrument cluster to gain access.
 
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ekspat
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Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 7:25 am Reply with quote Back to top

It should be possible to change it without having to remove the instrument panel/steering wheel. As far as I can see there are NO HOLES for any screws. I am hoping that it is a push fit, as it has three guide pins to help location. Will be attempting the change a little later today. Fingers crossed! Smile
 
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marsh_1st
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Joined: Feb 25, 2010
Posts: 94

PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 7:37 am Reply with quote Back to top

I seem to remember the hardest part was getting the anti tamper stuff off the screws - but it was done with the instruments and the wheel in. Good luck Smile
 
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ekspat
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Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 9:10 pm Reply with quote Back to top

The two grubb screws are a bugger, but I cannot see how on earth one could get the switch out with the instrument cluster in place!? However once the switch was in place I tested to see if all was ok, it was so I reassembled and turned the key, no ignition. Took it apart again and tested it hanging loose, no problem. So for the moment I am starting from the hanging switch and then unlocking the steering lock. But what the heck is the problem Question Question
 
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Mikes2
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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 10:58 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Genuine or aftermarket switch ?
 
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marsh_1st
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Posts: 94

PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 8:06 am Reply with quote Back to top

Just so I understand - you have managed to get the switch on the back of the barrel in situ but when you do it doesnt work? But when you take the barrel out and then attach the new switch it works fine?
 
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ekspat
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Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 9:12 am Reply with quote Back to top

Original part. Does´nt make sense to me that it will work only when not in place. Maybe there is something not right in the piece it fits into?
Stumped. Sad
 
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ekspat
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Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 1:23 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Just out of curiosity I decided to try the switch which had stopped working, that is hanging loose. Lo and behold it worked! So my conclusion is that something in the mechanical lock is the culprit. As it happens when I originally removed the switch, a small piece of metal came out too. It was clearly broken from something but what? I will try and attach a couple of pix, that normally helps when trying to explain something.



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ekspat
Needs to get out more



Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 1:36 pm Reply with quote Back to top

The second picture shows the piece of metal which is I cm. at its longest side.



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hoolio
Got Nothing Better To Do



Joined: Sep 22, 2006
Posts: 1034
Location: surrey

PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 2:28 pm Reply with quote Back to top

not 100% sure here Julian but that piece could be to do with the steering lock

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91 16v quattro,modded airbox k&n ,CAC zorst, spax vsx suspension, tubular manifold, de-cat, p&p head, KR cams a bit of this an that  
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Mikes2
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Joined: Jan 31, 2003
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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 4:24 pm Reply with quote Back to top

You need a new barrel. That bit in your picture is what turns the switch

Happened to mine. You need to drill a hole in the outer casing to remove the old one
 
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ekspat
Needs to get out more



Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 9:43 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Mike, could you be a little more specific as to the drilling. Does it matter where on the casing one drills and what does it achieve? Confused
Thanks.
 
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Mikes2
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 7:57 am Reply with quote Back to top

Haynes manual gives the location of the hole to drill, although it's difficult to get it spot on

The barrel has a raised clip which locks it in place inside the housing. To release the clip, you need to drill the housing and depress the clip.

Try a search for Audi 80 ignition barrel removal in your favourite search engine
 
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ekspat
Needs to get out more



Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 7:05 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Thanks Mike, finally have a new lock but I am having a hell of a time trying to remove the lower cowling around the steering wheel. I have been probing the hole for ever but can only "feel" some solid metal, nothing responds to pressure, so what is the secret? Question Question
Thanks.
 
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Mikes2
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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 8:19 pm Reply with quote Back to top

you don't need to undo the lower cowling.

Remove the two screws that hold the upper and lower covers together and remove the upper cover.

The column switchgear is held on to the steering column using a small screw. It's on the right side and there's an access hole in the lower cowling. It will be either a 5mm allen or a X head screw.

You don't need to remove it - just undo it and slide the column switches forwards with the lower cowling still attached.

Remember to disconnect the horn wire and the column switch wiring
 
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ekspat
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Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 12:18 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Getting nowhere fast. Disconnected three electrical connectors so I could see a bit more. Nothing resembling a screw to be seen. As I wrote before I have tried poking about through the hole in the lower cover but to no avail. Cant see any small screw on the right side. Do you think this could be due to the fact that it is a German home market car?



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ekspat
Needs to get out more



Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 12:27 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Second picture will only travel alone.



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Mikes2
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 2:51 pm Reply with quote Back to top

access is through the oval hole on your first picture. you'll likely need a torch or light to see it
 
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ekspat
Needs to get out more



Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 5:17 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I have been lying on my back with my head looking directly up into the slit poking about blindly, but all i can feel is part of the steering, solid curved metal. If anything is hiding in there it does´nt want to be found! If i move to the left or right just air. It is impossible to illuminate and see into the hole at the same time so i am running out of ideas. Mad
 
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ekspat
Needs to get out more



Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:29 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Time for action, I have decided to enlarge the hole. Just enough so I can actually see inside hopefully that should do the trick. Idea
 
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ekspat
Needs to get out more



Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 10:38 am Reply with quote Back to top

Enlarged the opening and finally got to see the fastener. Impossible to see without enlarging. Once the nut was loosened the cover came out, then the next problem appeared. Nobody I have spoken to, nothing I have read on the Net, the mechanic I have spoken to here in DK has mentioned the fact that the fastener holding the ignition lock housing is a patented fastener. Phoned the mechanic and told him, "Oh yes, we normally weld a piece of metal to it and then remove". Nice to know. On Wednesday I have to go for my MOT!!!!



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IanW_home
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Joined: Feb 02, 2003
Posts: 701
Location: Reading

PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 10:14 pm Reply with quote Back to top

If it has 6 points, it's a standard Tor-X 'tamperproof' security bit - most on-line tool shops sell them.

If it has 5 points, it is rather rarer - try these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverhill-Point-Tamper-Proof-Piece/dp/B002P4YCGM

Bosch MAF housing use these 5 point things - I grind a slot using a Dremel, then use a normal screwdriver.

The actual screw thread will be a standard size; once out, replace the screw with a common crosshead/hex head.

IAn.
 
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Mikes2
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 6:45 am Reply with quote Back to top

As Iain says - it's a Torx security bit needed

Like this

 
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Jamin
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Joined: Oct 20, 2006
Posts: 136

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 2:00 pm Reply with quote Back to top

or a normal small screwdriver, they aren't torqued up very tight.
 
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ekspat
Needs to get out more



Joined: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Denmark.

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 9:10 pm Reply with quote Back to top

One of the drawbacks of living on an island is the sudden lack of things one before took for granted, tools for example. However problem solved new lock installed and everything back to normal, well the next job is the crankcase oil seal! Enlarging the hole revealed what I had been searching for and releasing allowed the steering switch unit to be moved. Haynes states that by removing the two bolts at the top of the steering column this will allow it to be lowered. This facilitates removal of the actual lock housing. Removing said bolts allowed the column to move.......2 mm. It was resting on the loom which in turn was resting on the facia! So at the other end I loosened the two nuts seen in the pic, that was all that was needed, the rest was straightforward.
Thanks to all for help/advice.



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