Adrian Flux Insurance
Audifans.net: Audi Forums

www.audifans.net :: View topic - replace N/S front CV joint or shaft on A4 B5Avant year 2000
 
 Forum FAQForum FAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 
View next topic
View previous topic
Post new topic   Reply to topic
Author Message
masterlink
Inexperienced



Joined: Feb 22, 2012
Posts: 22

PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 4:30 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Is it worth replacing the CV joint or the complete drive shaft on the N/S front. Which is easier? Should I replace both drive shafts? Has anyone tackled this job?
 
View user's profile Send private message
Mikes2
Site Moderator
Site Moderator



Joined: Jan 31, 2003
Posts: 9114
Location: Polmont

PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 6:44 pm Reply with quote Back to top

cv joints are way cheaper than a complete driveshaft.

Not that difficult a job although easier to remove the complete driveshaft and dis-assemble off the car

_________________
Mike

________________
http://www.s2-audi.co.uk 
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
spartacus
Bandwidth Buster



Joined: Feb 07, 2006
Posts: 928
Location: Aberdeenshire

PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 8:42 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Safety first. Only do this with a proper trolley jack and axle stands. Latex gloves are a must, and plenty paper towelling or rags.

Chock the rear wheels and put the handbrake on. Put the car in gear and undo the front hub bolt, but don't completely remove. Not sure of the size, but pretty sure it's 24mm. If there's a plastic engine guard tray, then remove.

Undo front wheel bolts. Raise the front of the car and remove the wheel.

Remove plastic insulation trim inside wheel arch where drive shaft goes to the transmission, (it's foam lined) and held in place with a couple of Torx bolts.

Next job is to undo the Torx bolts on the inner drive shaft. Easiest way is to use a 1/2 socket drive and extension bar and systematically undo the Torx bolts. If necessary use a light pin hammer to bed the Torx bit, then use reasonable force to undo. Keep one front wheel on the road, raise, undo, then turn the wheel to ensure the next Torx bolt is lined up. There are 6 bolts in total.

With the inner hub released, raise the car again, both wheels, and turn the steering hard lock. Undo the outer CV bolt completely. Drop the inner CV down (hence reason for removing engine under tray), and with a bit of fiddling, you should be able to remove the driveshaft completely with no need to release pinch bolts or lower ball joints.

With the driveshaft out, use a foam pad to place the inner drive shaft in a vertical position. Now use a rubber mallet and hit the outer CV joint at intervals and it will release. Don't be tempted to use a lump hammer.

With the CV joint off, then clean the driveshaft so it's spotless. Lightly grease the new CV boot and slide over the rubber boot. Renew the split pin and circlip and the plastic cone, then thrust washer. Now fill the CV boot with grease and the CV joint. Clean the outer CV joint (where the retaining strap will tighten over it) and add the CV joint. Clean off excess grease and pinch the new steel straps so they are tight.

Before you refit, ensure the ABS sensor in the hub is nice and clean. Use a light smear of grease, such as Starbrite bearing grease on the face of the bearing. Offer up the drive shaft and locate it on the inner joint. With the wheels on hard lock, you can get the outer splined CV to connect to the hub.

Add the new outer CV bolt but don't fully tighten. Tighten the inner CV bolts first. Now fully tighten the outer CV joint, but with the wheel raised. Use a scissor jack or similar to rest the 1/2 extension socket on at the right height.

I used to recommend GKN Driveline parts, but quite honestly, stick to genuine Audi parts. You really don't want to do this job twice because you cut corners with cheap parts.

More details here: http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc27.shtml

_________________
Is that with or without VAT?

2010 Škoda Fabia 1.6 TDI (105) Elegance, 31k
2001 A4 2.5 TDI Avant Quattro Sport, 162k
2003 A2 1.4 TDI SE, 131k
1995 Audi 80 TDI SE Avant, 175k, sold Sad 
View user's profile Send private message
masterlink
Inexperienced



Joined: Feb 22, 2012
Posts: 22

PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 10:08 am Reply with quote Back to top

Many thanks Spartacus.
This is a job I will tackle in the Spring. At present, the N/S shaft is clicking on full L/hand lock only and with gentle driving, it should last till March I hope!.
 
View user's profile Send private message
spartacus
Bandwidth Buster



Joined: Feb 07, 2006
Posts: 928
Location: Aberdeenshire

PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 11:41 pm Reply with quote Back to top

No problem. Happy to help. Very Happy

Spring is still 3-4 months away. If it's clicking now it's only likely to get worse. Check the CV boot isn't torn. If it is, then change as matter of urgency as its dried out and you're running metal on metal. I'd allow an hour and a half per side. Start early, get plenty cups of tea on the go, it'll be a breeze.

_________________
Is that with or without VAT?

2010 Škoda Fabia 1.6 TDI (105) Elegance, 31k
2001 A4 2.5 TDI Avant Quattro Sport, 162k
2003 A2 1.4 TDI SE, 131k
1995 Audi 80 TDI SE Avant, 175k, sold Sad 
View user's profile Send private message
anjali14
Newbie
Newbie



Joined: Feb 06, 2015
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:33 am Reply with quote Back to top

Please can anyone tell me if it is likely to cause damage if I drive the car in the manual override asr?
I know that the reason for the ASR light to come on in normal mode is because I have fitted 2 new tyres to the front which are 50 profile but the rears are 55.




**SignaturE**
 
View user's profile Send private message
spartacus
Bandwidth Buster



Joined: Feb 07, 2006
Posts: 928
Location: Aberdeenshire

PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 10:02 am Reply with quote Back to top

anjali14 wrote:
Please can anyone tell me if it is likely to cause damage if I drive the car in the manual override asr?
I know that the reason for the ASR light to come on in normal mode is because I have fitted 2 new tyres to the front which are 50 profile but the rears are 55. **SignaturE**


Couple of things. If you have a knock the insurance company will walk away. Wrongly matched tyres will upset suspension, probably encourage uneven tyre wear, etc. if it's a quattro, then you're likely to overwind the the rear diff due to running the wrong circumference wheels.

_________________
Is that with or without VAT?

2010 Škoda Fabia 1.6 TDI (105) Elegance, 31k
2001 A4 2.5 TDI Avant Quattro Sport, 162k
2003 A2 1.4 TDI SE, 131k
1995 Audi 80 TDI SE Avant, 175k, sold Sad 
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:       
Post new topic   Reply to topic

View next topic
View previous topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You can attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum


Forums ©