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tadd
Audi Nut



Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 12:50 am Reply with quote Back to top

Hi guys,

Two days ago I have noticed that the engine is not running very good, rough idle (not alot) and strange juddering on lower rpms (up to 1700-1800) on light load... No difference on high rpms.

poor diesel? clogged fuel filter maybe? injectors? MAF? pump?? Confused

Should I start with new fuel filter and put new fuel in to check it out???

AUDI 100, 2.5 TDI 1992, AAT


Last edited by tadd on Thu May 09, 2013 10:36 am; edited 2 times in total 
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artb
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 6:46 pm Reply with quote Back to top

have a listen for an air leak ..

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tadd
Audi Nut



Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 8:46 pm Reply with quote Back to top

ok, i changed the fuel filter and there is no difference....

now new kind of judderting...

when i start it, everything is perfect, runs smooth...
when it gets 70- 85 judders like hell, like 2 injectors arent working..
and then when i ride it to the floor and it gets to 90c all judder stops and its working perfectly...

i tried unscrewing injectors one at the time and the it still judders.. tried unplugging upper (on the top) temperature sensor and MAF, no difference....

what now????
 
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tadd
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Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 8:57 pm Reply with quote Back to top

artb wrote:
have a listen for an air leak ..


well, i did notice hard brake pedal when car/engine is not working for 2+ hours.. where should i start?
 
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tadd
Audi Nut



Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:34 am Reply with quote Back to top

One more question, can EGR thats stuck open or closed cause this problems???
 
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HF1600ie
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Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 1:07 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I dont remember feeling my brake pedal stiff after 2 hours parked.

You can try blocking off te EGR with a plate to see if it´s EGR related. In my caase the only difference I feld was that the transition from idle to movement was quicker with a lot less grey/black smoke. And turbo spool up a lot quicker.

But you never know... you must start somewhere...
 
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tadd
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Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 1:14 pm Reply with quote Back to top

just came from outside, egr is ok... cleaned it and its workng ok, it wasnt that dirty anyways... looked for wacuum leaks, all ok...

20 min of driving and judders like HELL again ! its even hard to take of in the first gear fom all that juddering/missfiring....
 
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SkyRocketeer
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Joined: Feb 14, 2011
Posts: 346
Location: Newport S-Wales

PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 9:01 pm Reply with quote Back to top

checked the pump timing? might be mega advanced or something...?
 
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tadd
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Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:07 am Reply with quote Back to top

SkyRocketeer wrote:
checked the pump timing? might be mega advanced or something...?


maybe, tomorrow I have made an appointment at bosch service... he said most probably its electric on fuel pump... he has a brand new, will change it and call me Smile... i'll let u know

thx all
 
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HF1600ie
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:54 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Long time ago I had a long juddering whenever I was taking off from idle, but idle was fine.

It was the clutch that didn´t hold strongly so it slided various times before finally crushing itself agains the double mass flywheel.
The engine shaked BIG TIME !!!! I even broke an engine support because of this Smile
 
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tadd
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Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 2:41 am Reply with quote Back to top

HF1600ie wrote:
Long time ago I had a long juddering whenever I was taking off from idle, but idle was fine.

It was the clutch that didn´t hold strongly so it slided various times before finally crushing itself agains the double mass flywheel.
The engine shaked BIG TIME !!!! I even broke an engine support because of this Smile


yes... i understand... ii understand how everything works on car or any engine... in my free time i repair scooters and mopeds. only problem is 21 yo electronics...Smile

thx
 
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SkyRocketeer
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:02 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I doubt the problem is 21yo electronics. Sounds mechanical or fuelling.

Checked the timing belt? maybe the front belt has jumped a tooth, putting it all out, or perhaps even the tensioner is playing up, thus random(ish) juddering.
 
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tadd
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Posts: 61

PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:32 pm Reply with quote Back to top

SkyRocketeer wrote:
I doubt the problem is 21yo electronics. Sounds mechanical or fuelling.

Checked the timing belt? maybe the front belt has jumped a tooth, putting it all out, or perhaps even the tensioner is playing up, thus random(ish) juddering.


it would judder when cold then, but nothing untill lets say 60-70C
 
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tadd
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 3:56 pm Reply with quote Back to top

yep, the problem was on the fuel pump electornics/actuator... all good now...

i also changed belt and tensioners and paid around 235 ponds with labor...

but now it has lower power on low revs, but alot more on 2k+

still need to check lines to wastegate actuator and wastegate itself...
 
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tadd
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 6:21 pm Reply with quote Back to top

today i changed all vacuum hoses around vacuum pump leading to that thing that operates EGR... now i dont have any smoke... still have to go to BOSCH service so they fix fuel quantity, its very weak when its cold.. i'll keep you informed Smile
 
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SkyRocketeer
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 7:02 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Glad you're getting to the bottom of it - it's quite rewarding once you've finally found the source of the problem - regardless of how frustrating it was at the time. Please keep us informed.
 
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tadd
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Posts: 61

PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 7:14 pm Reply with quote Back to top

SkyRocketeer wrote:
Glad you're getting to the bottom of it - it's quite rewarding once you've finally found the source of the problem - regardless of how frustrating it was at the time. Please keep us informed.


sure will Smile

1 question... sometimes i lose turbo while cruising...

start with boost lines and actuator???

(edit: fixing vacuum hoses fixed stiff brake pedal in the morning) Smile
 
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tadd
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Posts: 61

PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 7:07 pm Reply with quote Back to top

new problems...

still have judder on cruising, any speed or gear, nothing on full acceletarion or engine breaking...

morning start is good but engine idle is 650-700 and SLOW, but SLOW response on gas pedal for 1 min

it has very low power till it gets warm, and when it gets warm its not alot better

HUGE diesel leak from new actuator/electronic on bosch pump...
lost 10 liters in 100km

tomorow morning, BOSCH service again.. it buggs me alot when i have to go back to mechanic again and again for same thing...

keep you informed
 
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HF1600ie
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Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 9:31 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I know how you feel. I hate coming back for the same problem too. That´s why most of the things I fix myself.

Using vag.com would tell you how your pump timing is and how your fueling is.

My A6 shakes when I accelerate at +/- 1400rpm and let it stay there. At that RPM is ALWAYS shake a little. Not a fast shake, but more of a long-wave shake if you know what I mean ...

Don´t know why. I have new nozzles now and injectors were calibrated, still shakes. Big benefit was power, and a little more smoothness.
 
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tadd
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Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:04 pm Reply with quote Back to top

HF1600ie wrote:
I know how you feel. I hate coming back for the same problem too. That´s why most of the things I fix myself.

Using vag.com would tell you how your pump timing is and how your fueling is.

My A6 shakes when I accelerate at +/- 1400rpm and let it stay there. At that RPM is ALWAYS shake a little. Not a fast shake, but more of a long-wave shake if you know what I mean ...

Don´t know why. I have new nozzles now and injectors were calibrated, still shakes. Big benefit was power, and a little more smoothness.


teell me all the things i need for vag.com please .. cables? etc...
 
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HF1600ie
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Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 11:54 am Reply with quote Back to top

Hi,
You need a program called vag-com. Version 311,2 is enough.
Then you need an USB OBD II cable (cable 1) and a 2x2 cable (cable 2).

Using this names you will find in sales sites what cables they are.

PC --> OBD II ---> 2x2 ---> ECU port (engine compartiment)

Hope this helps


tadd wrote:
HF1600ie wrote:
I know how you feel. I hate coming back for the same problem too. That´s why most of the things I fix myself.

Using vag.com would tell you how your pump timing is and how your fueling is.

My A6 shakes when I accelerate at +/- 1400rpm and let it stay there. At that RPM is ALWAYS shake a little. Not a fast shake, but more of a long-wave shake if you know what I mean ...

Don´t know why. I have new nozzles now and injectors were calibrated, still shakes. Big benefit was power, and a little more smoothness.


teell me all the things i need for vag.com please .. cables? etc...
 
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tadd
Audi Nut



Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:37 pm Reply with quote Back to top

vag com is not the problem, my friend has it... can you point me to good ebay obd and 2.2 cables?

HF1600ie wrote:
Hi,
You need a program called vag-com. Version 311,2 is enough.
Then you need an USB OBD II cable (cable 1) and a 2x2 cable (cable 2).

Using this names you will find in sales sites what cables they are.

PC --> OBD II ---> 2x2 ---> ECU port (engine compartiment)

Hope this helps


tadd wrote:
HF1600ie wrote:
I know how you feel. I hate coming back for the same problem too. That´s why most of the things I fix myself.

Using vag.com would tell you how your pump timing is and how your fueling is.

My A6 shakes when I accelerate at +/- 1400rpm and let it stay there. At that RPM is ALWAYS shake a little. Not a fast shake, but more of a long-wave shake if you know what I mean ...

Don´t know why. I have new nozzles now and injectors were calibrated, still shakes. Big benefit was power, and a little more smoothness.


teell me all the things i need for vag.com please .. cables? etc...
 
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tadd
Audi Nut



Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:38 pm Reply with quote Back to top

vag com is not the problem, my friend has it... can you point me to good ebay obd2 and 2+2 cables?

what about this??
http://www.amazon.com/Soliport-Bluetooth-OBDII-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B004KL0I9I

will it work with 2+2 ?

HF1600ie wrote:
Hi,
You need a program called vag-com. Version 311,2 is enough.
Then you need an USB OBD II cable (cable 1) and a 2x2 cable (cable 2).

Using this names you will find in sales sites what cables they are.

PC --> OBD II ---> 2x2 ---> ECU port (engine compartiment)

Hope this helps


tadd wrote:
HF1600ie wrote:
I know how you feel. I hate coming back for the same problem too. That´s why most of the things I fix myself.

Using vag.com would tell you how your pump timing is and how your fueling is.

My A6 shakes when I accelerate at +/- 1400rpm and let it stay there. At that RPM is ALWAYS shake a little. Not a fast shake, but more of a long-wave shake if you know what I mean ...

Don´t know why. I have new nozzles now and injectors were calibrated, still shakes. Big benefit was power, and a little more smoothness.


teell me all the things i need for vag.com please .. cables? etc...
 
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HF1600ie
Needs to get out more



Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 5:06 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I have no idea if it will. That´s a diagnostic tool
Vag-com is better.

This can be a 2x2 type cable :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-VW-VAG-2x2-KKL-2-2-to-OBD2-16-pin-Adaptor-Diagnostic-Cable-/150822016698?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item231db156ba

Hope the board doesn´t mind me placing this link.
 
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daz-the-dogg
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Joined: Jul 26, 2011
Posts: 340
Location: Stevenage

PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 12:31 am Reply with quote Back to top

I know it relates to the 1Z engine fitted to the 80 1.9tdi but might be worth reading thru this http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?105235-TDI-Judder-quot-Solved-quot&highlight=judder%2A this http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?12393-Audi-80-tdi-juddering-bucking-jerking/page26&highlight=judder%2A and this https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5kG3R_M3YWVMjI1MjFhNDEtZTQ0YS00OTAyLWI2MTktMDJmMjUyNmI1NDI0/edit?hl=en_US&authkey=CKPvnvgL&pli=1

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tadd
Audi Nut



Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:57 am Reply with quote Back to top

what can faulty temperature sender 034919369C cause??
 
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tadd
Audi Nut



Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 2:07 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Is that 034919369C just fan switch or does it control gauge and engine fuel quantity?
 
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tadd
Audi Nut



Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 10:34 am Reply with quote Back to top

GREAT NEWS ! Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

After five days without a car being at BOSCH service I got a call to pick it up....

They changed actuator (again), because that new one they installed three weeks ago was bad, all the hoses from filter, pump and fuel return ones.

They said I have to clean the intake manifold because if severely blocked...

My AAT has alot of power again, some smoke on 1800-1900 boost rpm and then its stops. No more judder at idle or cruise. No more turbo kicking in at 2000+ rpm and it starts REALLY good when cold or warm. Now it gets to 90C alot faster, like it did before. No more hearing valves when cold and was no power. My opinion: they skipped a tooth on fuel pump belt and was too much in retard.

Thank you all for helping me. Hope this solves someone's problems.

Three more questions Razz


Is it possible to remove intake manifold from under the hood (upper side of the engine)?

Do I need new gaskets for intake manifold after removing it?

What do I have to watch over when cleaning intake manifold and engine head?

(sorry for my english) Wink
 
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tadd
Audi Nut



Joined: Apr 23, 2012
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 10:40 am Reply with quote Back to top

today, again... judder/missfire on idle, warmer it gets judders more...

called borch service again. he said he has 1 more electronics to swap and then he will refun if it wont fix the problem...

1 question, what does 046906283C solenoid valve does?
 
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spink
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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 11:28 am Reply with quote Back to top

yes you can take inlet manifold off very easily,remove your airbox and all the bolts are easily accessible and come out easy.New gasket is only 2 or 3 pounds/euros so not worth reusing the old one.
 
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